When it comes to bespoke commissions, I’ve learned over the years to always expect the unexpected.
The jewellery adventure detailed below began with an out-of-the-blue phone call from a dear friend and client, who had a very specific request.
Could I meet her in Geneva to discuss a new bespoke ring commission? A dress ring with a distinctly "haute horlogerie" feel to it?
A chance to visit the salons and ateliers of some of Switzerland’s finest watchmakers?
A VIP tour of the world famous Patek Philippe Museum?
My client already knew I shared her passion for fine timepieces and, rather like Don Corleone in “The Godfather”, she had just made me an offer I simply couldn’t refuse!
As we marvelled at the watchmaker’s masterpieces along the Rue du Rhône, my client would point out the particular design aesthetics that she adored.
The purpose of this exercise (other than sheer delight and enjoyment for us both!) was to gain inspiration to create a unique gemstone ring for my client that would capture the essence of haute horlogerie.
My client had selected a centre stone for this bespoke ring commission some time ago in London - so I already had my starting point for the new design.
On the flight home, my brain was buzzing with exciting design ideas. I couldn’t wait to get to the studio to sketch them out on paper.
My client's somewhat unusual brief to me was the same as all her previous commissions. I was under strict instruction not to show her any design sketches nor to update my client on the progress of her commission in the studio.
In short, this ring was to remain a complete surprise to her. The very first time she would view it would be when she opened the ring box to reveal the completed piece!
As I started goldsmithing in the studio I couldn’t help wondering whether I would truly be able to capture my client’s love of luxury watches in the dress ring now taking shape on my bench.
As a lover of bi-colour metal watches (and jewellery) I was keen to incorporate this horological highlight into the luxury watch inspired bespoke ring design I was creating for my friend and client.
Here, you can see the intricate scrolled "watch case" back to the ring wrought from 18K yellow gold with the crisp 18K white gold "watch face" which forms the head of the ring - complete with substantial prongs to set the rather impressive centre stone that my client had chosen.
Two pieces of precious metal become one. Soldering the 18K yellow and white gold sections of this horologically inspired ring together.
At present, you'll probably notice that the white gold head of this ring totally overpowers the delicate scrolled yellow gold gallery and ring shank - but please don't worry!
Much of the white gold head will be worked back and removed during some pretty intricate micro pavé setting work I have planned for this very special piece.
A first glimpse of the beautiful 4.32ct square cut citrine my client chose for the centre stone of this piece - along with some rather stunning carré cut diamonds that will provide four very unique accents to this stunning 18K gold dress ring.
In case you're wondering, there are also a significant number of dazzling round brilliant cut diamonds (not shown here) that will be micro-pavé set as a halo around the exceptional citrine centre stone.
Even in this shot taken at my bench, you can clearly see this mesmerising soft yellow citrine seems to have an inner glow and incredible luminosity quite separate from the ambient light in the studio.
The intricate micro pavé setting work begins on the white gold head of this very special horologically inspired piece.
In fact, after setting 64 round brilliant cut diamonds, you'll hardly be able to see the white gold head at all.
The with micro pavé work on the diamond halo and carré cut diamond accents complete, it's time to set the gorgeous 4.32ct square cut citrine .
She's flirting with us!
With setting work complete on the "face" of this horologically inspired piece, this coy but incredibly captivating dress ring seems more keen to show us her sensual curves...
As you can see, the commission is still awaiting its final polish - the next step towards the completion of this stunning ring.
About face!
The completed ring prior to final polishing.
From the scrolled white gold surround and diamond halo "face" to the four carré cut diamond accents and square cut shape of the centre stone - I'm hoping my client will enjoy the distinctly horological features of this very beautiful ring.
Like so many fine watches, this horologically inspired ring has a very special hidden design feature.
A casual glance at the "face" of the piece and you'd be forgiven for thinking that this ring features a single white diamond halo surround.
But look a little closer and, nestled under the soft yellow 4.32ct square cut citrine, you'll see a hidden second halo set with stunning fancy yellow diamonds - to accent and enhance the hue of the gorgeous centre stone.
Ready for your close-up!
This perfectly pretty photogenic piece spent some time in front of the camera prior to meeting her "forever owner" for the very first time.
Capturing the essence of haute horlogerie, a very special commission for a very special friend and client.
I am thrilled to say when my client met her stunning new dress ring, it was, most definitely, love at first sight!
